Saturday, November 21, 2009

Getting lie of the land - November 12th


If you look at a map of Rangatira, you will see that it is divided into two uneven halves. Skua Gully splits the island east to west – although it is not really a gully and is completely free of skuas. Most of the robin work takes place in the lower half of the island which is known as Woolshed Bush, but all that remains of the woolshed is a few posts and a stack of ancient sheep skulls. At a quick pace, you can cross Woolshed Bush in 15 minutes and climb up through the bracken and nettle that choke Skua gully into Top bush, the southern and much bigger half of the island. The trees are smaller up there and cling more precariously in thinner soil, more thoroughly mined with tunnels and nests.


Skua getting ready to attack

On the far side of Top bush are North and South summit - and it is here that I make my way one hot and sunny afternoon. Both summits are slabs of lichen-covered rock that drop sheer into the sea. It is not the sort of place to be careless of either your footing or the skuas. For twenty minutes, it is gorgeous there – hot, calm and with a clear view out to the Murumurus, a cluster of sharp rocks fallen from the end of Pitt island – but then I am discovered. How do these bird have the energy to be so angry?! They win though – I move downhill to find somewhere more peaceful.

Chatham Island forget-me-not

It was Kev who found Forget-me-not gully between the two summits, reachable by sliding over boulders and crawling under the giant hebes until, scratched and dusty, you come out into a meadow of Chatham island forget-me-nots. The cliffs of both peaks tower above and in the narrow slice of ocean you can just make out the distant Pyramid island – a much nicer place to hang out.

Alex enjoying the view

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